Its coast must be among the most beautiful; its relics among the best preserved; and its adaptation to tourism rated among the best executed. Croatia lives up to its advertising. Blessed with the same climate, coastline and tourist access, its southern neighbor, Montenegro is like a dirty diaper on a beautiful baby.

Getting to that tranquil coast takes a bit of effort, and time. Airline schedules are limited--particularly in the off-season. For those still able to party through the night getting up at 4 a.m. to catch a 6 a.m. flight is just an extension of yesterday. For those of us for whom the hours between midnight and six are figments of someone else's imagination, pre-dawn schedules garner unflattering adjectives. Decisively, the magnetic attraction for that last glass of wine under the moon on the Adriatic erases the logical option--go to bed early. To endure is to enjoy.

Clearly, there is more in Croatia to enjoy than to endure.

Like much of Europe, Croatia capitalizes on natural beauty and well preserved history. It also takes full advantage of available cash and long range planning.

The old city in Dubrovnik, shelled and badly damaged in the "conflict" in the early 1990's, is a living relic lovingly restored. Two kilometers of massive stone walls enclose an ancient town of thriving stores selling the normal tourist kitsch, better than average ice cream and a challenging assortment of restaurants. It is also a living city in which its people carry on traditions and lives influenced by generations. Reconstruction has been done carefully: old and ancient, like grandparents, given new roles.

The old city and the new work. Transportation is inexpensive, wide ranging and on time. The garbage is picked up and the streets washed. Only the tourists are pushy. Croatian has done well with self promotion.
Major hotels dot the hills and ring the bays. With Russians and Chinese now part of mainstream tourism, numbers of visitors are swelling and to be there in the "season" doesn't seem appealing. This is a coast with a limited season like Maine in the U.S. From May 25 the streets are packed, the hotels full and the t-shirts fly off the racks. After September 15, you can find a seat on the bus and make a last minute decision on restaurants.

Alluring cash and human greed are always a danger when a spot is "found" and available to the masses. How many places have we seen destroyed by their popularity like Costa del Sol and possibly Yosemite. Montenegro, just a pleasant day tour to the south of Dubrovnik is the Adriatic example. Construction is everywhere, cheap and unplanned. New apartments, flats and houses have no guarantee of electricity and water because the infrastructure has not been staged. Year-old buildings are worn and aging. It has its greatest appeal to Russian and eastern European buyers. As our traveling companion said, if you live in ramshackle all your life, a glimpse of green and blue waters is heaven. Montenegro has its beautiful artifacts. But what is being restored is largely for upscale digs. The contrast with Croatia is definite and definitive.

The "Croatian Greyhound" ride north from Dubrovnik to Split is only 200 hundred kilometers, or about 120 miles, but takes four hours along a constantly winding coastal road. It is much like traveling along Hiway 1 in California, except the view is of islands, bays, and inlets rather than open seas. Sit on the left hand side of the bus as the view of the rocky mountains to the right might get monotonous. Certainly to take this ride is to dream about returning to rent the little villa tucked into the cove at the bottom of the steep cliff; to putt through the Ponnonian Plain on a motor scooter; or lounge through the islands aboard a small, chartered sail boat. Stopping to pick up the random local helps to add life to all that beauty.

Passing the seven miles of oyster and mussel beds excites the palette. A bowl of fresh shells and a bit of excellent local wine spring to mind when you arrive in Split. But I must admit that after all that scenery, arriving in Split is a bit of a jolt. A mass of ugly high rises smacks you in the eyes and a feeling of disorder replaces the tranquility. Things get better near the bus station at the water front, but only slightly. A throng of obviously poor people wanting to rent you a room greets your arrival. The city is clean and full of bustle, but obviously has not benefited from the rising economic tide. But it will.

The historic walled city Palace of Diocletian is alive and rather spectacular. Its catacombs have been excavated since the 1980's and it too has a new and full life. In fact, it is better integrated into the general life of the city than the old city of Dubrovnik with better shops, markets and hotels. However, regardless of the decor, each restaurant seemed to serve the same menu--good but the same. The promenade is new, modern and beautiful, attracting as many locals as tourist to enjoy the cafes or just sit and watch the small boats rocking to the beat of the breeze. And, Split has its local characters. One a severely hunched-over old woman supported by a chest stick, head shaking uncontrollably from a Parkinson type ailment, a draped black hanging scarf concealing her face and features, begs quite successfully. A careful look at those outstretched hands reveals those of a strong, younger woman. The act is worth the price of admission and goes without question. Our traveling companion took a picture of her kissing the toes of a famous statue. Doing so is supposed to have magical powers. Then, totally by happenstance, he turned back to look about 10 seconds later and there was an absolutely gorgeous young lady, dressed almost the same in black and scarf walking towards us. We tried to get Sonja and Linda to kiss the toe, but got only looks of scorn!

Zagreb looks worth a visit, a least from the air. Maybe on a future trip. But now we must concentrate on getting moved from Zurich to Brussels. Our friends tell us there is much to see in the Benelux, so stay tuned.

As we might have mentioned the new Brussels house has four bedrooms--lots of space for a visit.